道東 2日目 霧多布 / Eastern Hokkaido Day 2 Kiritappu

Kiritappu (霧多布) to Bettoga (別当賀)

Since I didn’t have much time from my arrival the day before and didn’t find any sea otters, my goal this morning was to start with sea otters. I also want to photograph the landscape of the Cape, so I set out before dawn (thank goodness it’s only a few minutes drive though!).

夜明けの海に灯台からの光が差す Light from a lighthouse shines on the dawn sea
The light of the lighthouse illuminates the offshore area
夜明けの湯沸岬 Cape Toufutsu at Dawn
Cape of Toufutsu (湯沸) / Kiritappu (霧多布)
岩に立つオオセグロカモメ Slaty-backed Gull standing on a rock
Flocks of Slaty-backed Gulls were flying around even before sunrise.

After the sun came up, I noticed sea otters floating on the north side of the cape where the waves were calm. One was a little far away, but the other came out to a fairly close overlook. I failed to ask at the inn if they are not breeding this year?

海に浮かんでカニを食べるラッコ Sea otter eating crab floating in the sea
Gourmet otter eating a big crab in the morning. It is nice to keep a lot of them on its stomach.
海に浮かんでカニを食べるラッコ Sea otter eating crab floating in the sea
It grips the crab with both hands and chews it with all its might. It is dexterous; It eats 10 kg a day.
ラッコにちょっかいを出すカモメ A seagull messing with a sea otter
Seagull seems to be bothering it.
岩場とカモメの群れ A rocky beach and a flock of seagulls
A rocky area where the Slaty-backed Gulls rest.

When I returned to the inn after photographing the cape for a while, I found that a group of Asian Rosy Finch had just appeared.

ハギマシコ Asian Rosy Finch
地面で餌を探すハギマシコ Asian Rosy Finch searching for food on the ground

Leaving the inn, I headed for Kiritappu marshland. It seemed that not many birds could be expected in the marshland at this time of year, but I held my ground.

霧多布湿原とエゾシカ Kiritappu Marshland and Ezo sika deer
Ezo-shika deer in the marsh, looking at me from the bushes in the distance.

Wooden paths for strolling and nature observation are set up here and there in the surrounding area. I stopped by Oku-Biwase Wild Bird Park, which is located relatively close to the mouth of the river.

遠くの川を並んで泳ぐ4羽の大白鳥 Four Whooper swans swimming side by side in a distant river
A group of Whooper Swans came from the other side.
川を泳ぐ4羽のオオハクチョウ Four whooper swans swimming in the river
霧多布湿原の水辺の風景 Waterscape of Kiritappu Marshland
This is the scenery even just outside of town.
飛翔するコガモの群れ A flock of teal in flight
Here is a flock of teal, not particularly rare in Yamaguchi.
灌木の間からこちらを見つめるオスのエゾシカ Male Yezo sika deer gazing at me through the bushes
There was also a male Ezo sika deer.

From here, I left Kiritappu and headed toward Shibetsu (標津) Town and Rausu (羅臼) via the North Pacific Seaside Line on Prefectural Route 142.

A pair of White-tailed Eagles at Poroto-numa (幌戸沼). The male and female are only distinguishable by size, but the one on the right appears to be the female.

川の土手に並んで朝日を浴びるオジロワシのペア A pair of white-tailed eagles lined up on the river bank, basking in the morning sun.
Dignified figure. There are many scenes that cannot be taken sharply due to fluctuation, perhaps because of the temperature difference due to the cold weather. It would be better to take more shots.
波の打ち寄せる荒涼とした海岸の長時間露光写真 Long exposure photo of a desolate beach with lapping waves
From in front of Esashito (恵茶人) Shrine. The seaside route offers desolate scenery.

Although I did not have time to stop in Nemuro, I wanted to see the Fureshima Marsh in Bettoga (別当賀).

フレシマ湿原に向かう未舗装路 Unpaved road to Fureshima Marsh
Turn off the road and continue on the dirt road. It is not recommended to enter the area with an on-road bike as the stones become rough from the middle of the road.
木に止まる一羽のウソ An Eurasian Bullfinch perched in a tree
Encountered a small group of Eurasian Bullfinches.

After about two kilometers, I came to an unspoiled marshland that stretched out in front of the beach. Unfortunately, there was not much sign of birds, but it had a special atmosphere.

フレシマ湿原のパノラマ Panorama of Fureshima marshland
Wonderful scenery.

But there are also scenery that feels strange to me.

フレシマ湿原に設置された野鳥の会の注意書きとモニュメント Warning signs and monuments of the Wild Bird Society installed at Fureshima marshland
It is ironic that someone would install a goofy artifact in front of this land.
水面を走るように逃げるカモ Ducks fleeing as if running on the surface of the water
Common Goldeneye on the run. And the duck behind?

Excited to see what kind of scenery I would see, I reached the end of the road, only to find that it was closed.

多数の立ち入り禁止の注意書きが並ぶ、保護区の門 The gate to the protected area, lined with numerous no-entry signs.
A chorus of no trespassing.

I understand that you want to protect the pristine nature. But I wonder what is this sense of discomfort.
I felt that buying up land for protection and then claiming ownership of the land is a human activity that is far removed from this “pristine nature.” I left the Fureshima marshland with a sense of ridiculousness in my heart.

Continued on Day 2 Rausu

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